Even though we don't depart Cretaoile until Saturday, today is our farewell day. We had our final planned activities and our farewell pici dinner. Tomorrow we're on our own. What a fantastic stay we've had. Lou was reluctant when I booked an agriturismo that I came across online. He wasn't excited about staying in an efficiency that was a former barn. In the end, we've had an exceptional stay and would recommend Cretaiole to anyone wanting to get immersed in Tuscany. The Dolce Vita package which covered all our included activities was worth every single Euro.
This morning we met Carlotta at the family farm at 9:30 to go on an artisans' tour of Pienza. Our first stop was at a pottery place that we'd passed several times. Each time we passed, I commented that I love the landscape tiles. Linda, the artist, explained her art, shared her background and demonstrated by making a tile. Just the one I liked. Don't be surprised if any future kitchen remodel includes her tiles.
From there, we walked across Pienza and up two flights of stairs to a gallery. We were there to see an exhibition of what is now known as recycled art. The artist is an 87-year old man who's been doing this kind of art since before it was a thing. Fascinating stuff. I was floored by some of the creativity.
We were there for awhile so we skipped going to a weaver's studio. Carlotta told us we had to walk back to the cars to caravan to our final stop, an iron forge. We walked a different route back to the cars and ended up stopping at the home of the artist whose exhibition we'd just attended. We got to go explore his workshop.
The artist was a partisan during World War II and has seen a lot. In a town not far from here, the Nazis came to round up the residents to take them away. The priest said they had a German woman living in the town and asked if she could come speak to the Nazi. It turns out she and the Nazi were from the same town so he let the residents alone.
That was an interesting visit. Then we were off to our final stop on the artisans' tour to see a blacksmith at an iron forge. I didn't expect what we saw. Gorgeous sculptures, gates, headboards, decorative art, house safes, you name it.
Our next tour separate from the Artisan's Tour was a cheese tasting at a pecorino farm. I learned that the Italian word for sheep is pecora so any cheese made from sheep's milk is called pecorino. This part of Tuscany is the best for you aiding the Sardinian sheep who make the best cheese. (We also learned that ricotta is technically not cheese because it's cooked twice. Cheese can only be cooked once. Additionally, rich means re and cotta means cooked. So this stuff is rebooked.)
We got to sample 8 different varieties. Some aged more than others (one not aged at all), some flavored differently and three aged surrounded by different flavor enhancers such as walnut leaves, flowers or bran.
We sampled those cheeses with bread, salt, olive oil, wine and a green salad.
For dessert he brought out ricotta which we spread on bread and covered with sugar. Delicious!
Giovanni told us a story about how he suggested they open the farm to visitors interested in learning about pecorino. His father thought this was ridiculous. "Who would pay to see us make cheese?" That is until he went to Holland and paid money to see Durch cheese makers do their thing.
Satiated after the cheese tasting, we headed back to Cretaoile where we had time to relax before our pici making class. Pici is the pasta love cal to the Val d'Orchia.
We made the past a. I'm using the royal we since I just watched and took photos. They worked on the pici while I worked on the pics. After the pasta was rolled and cooked, we all shared a delicious dinner. What special night of good food, good wine, great comraderie.
Too much vino and I can't keep my eyes open a moment longer. Buona notte.
No comments:
Post a Comment